City of Badami

City of Badami

District Bagalkot, Karnataka

            Badami is one of the most ancient cities of the Deccan. Although the area around the city was inhabited since Mesolithic times, it reached its zenith under the Chalukyan Dynasty  (6th- 8th Century CE ). Before we explore the art treasures of Badami, it is imperative to know a bit of its history.  According to the Puranic lore, the area was ruled by two demonic brothers, Vatapi and Ilvala. Ilvala would kill Vatapi, and feed his meat to the guests. Then, he would ask Vatapi to come out; Vatapi would come out, thereby killing the guest. Saint Agastaya was also fed Vatapi ' s meat. But before Ilvala could call his brother out, Agastaya said "Vatapi be digested." Vatapi never came out. This myth clearly speaks of Aryanisation of this region. 

        Pulkeshin I (r. 544 - 67 CE) established Badami as the capital of the Chalukyan Kingdom.  He named the city as Vatapi. For two centuries Vatapi was the seat of the Chalukyan Kingdom.  

        The Chalukyan Kings and Queens were great patrons of art, architecture,  literature, dance and music. They experimented with architecture,  excavating cave temples, and constructing free standing temples. Their experiments can be found in Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal.  It is there architectural imagination which has given rise to both the Northern (Nagara ) style, and to the Dravidian style of architecture in India. Thus, they are the founders of Indian architecture as we know it today. 

        Although initially the worshipped Lord Vishnu, but subsequently they became worshippers of Lord Shiva. But their dedication to Hinduism did not make them blind to other religions. In fact the equally patronised Jainism and Buddhism. In fact one of their Kings has boasted that different religions are peacefully coexisting and flourishing in his Kingdom.  Assimilation was the hallmark of the Chalukyan Dynasty.  

        But simultaneously Chalukyans were a proud race. The bitterly fought with the Pallavas of Kanchipuram for two hundred years. The constant warfare destroyed both the kingdoms. Both are in ruins today. 

         There is much to learn from the rise and fall of the Chalukyans!

A Lady with a Parrot

A Lady with a Parrot

Belur Temple,Karnataka,Hoysala Dynasty,12th Century AD

The relationship between woman and a bird is an ancient one. In Sanskrit literature there are stories about women talking to a parrot. During the Mughal period these stories were translated into Persian and came to be known as "Tutinama".

Parrot is the symbol of love in Hindu mythology as it is the vehicle of Kama, the god of love. The lonely woman confined behind the walls of her palace, thus, speaks to the parrot about her loneliness, about her desires and about her love for the hero. In turn, the parrot tells her stories to keep her entertained. Through this dialogue many practical tips, many comments are made about the world at large. The parrot, therefore, is not only a source of entertainment, but is also a source of enlightenment.

The Hoysala sculptor depicts the woman elegantly attired, standing solemnly, paying attention to what the parrot has to say. The jewelery, the voluptuous figure captures the yourh of the woman who is being made wiser by the bird. It is a poignant moment of loneliness, of learning.

Goddess Chamunda

Goddess Chamunda

Hoysalawara Temple, Karnataka,12th Century AD

Considered the most ferocious form of Goddess Durga, Goddess Chamunda is depicted as a woman in fury. Having decapitated the demon, she dances with time. She is surrounded by skeletons representing death and total destruction. As the protectress of the cosmos, the Great Mother destroys what is evil, what is chaos. She restores order into disorder.

Although the Hoysala sculptor worked with medium size stones, he lent monumentality to the sculptures by contrasting small figures with large ones. This sculpture is awe inspiring.

Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati on Nandi, the Bull

Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati on Nandi, the Bull

Hoysalawara Temple, Karnataka, 12th Century AD

  In Shiva Puran there is a story about Goddess Parvati ask Lord Shiva to take her through a city after their marriage. At every step the people criticised the couple for riding on the Bull or for not riding on the Bull. No matter what ine does, you cannt please all the people all the time is the message of the story and of this sculpture.

Durga Temple

Durga Temple

Aihole, Karnataka, 8th Century AD 


            The first set of temples were either the Stupas or the Cave temples as in Ajanta and Ellora. The Durga Temple at Aihole is the first free standing temple we have. Interestingly, its apse (the passageway for circumbulation) is built like the Vihars in Ajanta. This clearly demonstrates that the floor plan continued to be of a cave temple, but in a free standing building. The Shikhar is a small one and is disproportionate to the length of the building. But the first step to construction of a free standing temple has been taken. The rest is history.